Surf 6n2158

100 GREATEST WAVES

CASEY KOTEEN and the editors of TransWorld SURF

AARON CHECKWOOD Photography Editor

Introduction Surfers are notoriously, even ridiculously secretive about sharing

Ultimately, good things are meant to be shared . . . eventually.

the discovery of good waves—from a local sandbar that might

There’s only so many times you can get barreled alone before

work for only a day or two, to an isolated, malaria-drenched

you get bored with it being an entirely self-reflective pursuit.

cove in the jungles of Sumba.

So while you drool in amazement over the following pages (and after editing surf magazines for more than a decade, I

I have a friend who’d spent time in Barra at least three years

don’t believe a book exists with as many diverse, incredible surf

before the 2006 Rip Curl Search event scored what’s often

images from across the world), it’s worth noting that many of

referred to as the best surf ever seen in a World Tour contest,

these breaks and regions have been brought to our attention

and showed it to the masses. He’d explored the region for a

as a result of people that have put in an extraordinary amount

few months, and one day I ran across him back home. We got

of work discovering and pioneering them.

to chatting about how his trip went, which at some point led to a question about how the waves were. This may sound like a

To paraphrase Daniel Boorstin, travelers are active—they

simple query—it’s not. For two surfers, it’s a laughably delicate,

seek experience and adventure—while tourists are ive,

complex social transaction. Like I’d done thousands of times

expecting interesting things to happen to them. It’s thanks to

before, my tone feigned just the right amount of indifference

surfers who were travelers, and not tourists, that many of these

so as not to arouse suspicion. His response was casual. “Oh, not

waves have been brought to our collective attention. In some

bad.” It may have been the biggest understatement ever. In

cases those people have dedicated their lives to a wave,

fact, he didn’t even tell his own brothers, also die-hard surfers,

and to the noble pursuit of keeping the area pristine. Without

for more than a year (and after another trip down there),

these travelers to either seek out new places and waves, or to

that he’d stumbled upon the best waves of his life. He didn’t

surf ones previously thought impossible, the world would be a

discover the wave, but I know that on that very first trip he

much more boring place. From Phil Edwards surfing Pipeline for

spent more time going down dead-end dirt roads, digging his

the first time, to the intrepid duo of Kevin Naughton and Craig

truck out of the sand in triple-digit heat, and being robbed by

Peterson who traveled for more than a decade discovering

banditos than he did surfing perfect waves. Surf exploration

spots throughout Morocco, Ireland, Mexico, Fiji, and beyond,

(and by definition, going out into unfamiliar territory) is a high-

here are 100 celebrations of that pioneer spirit.

risk, low-rewards pursuit. You start to understand why someone would want to hold hard-earned cards close to their chest.



—Casey Koteen

Jay Thompson, Burleigh Heads, Australia.

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UNITED STATES Great Lakes

We know, putting a spot from the Great Lakes in this book seems a little ironic at best, but it takes all kinds, and if you’re after a fresh-water surfing experience, it doesn’t get much better (or colder) than this. Minnesota is far better known for ice fishing and

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A Prairie Home Companion than surf, but there are good days every year for those willing to look and brave the elements. The Great Lakes are huge, stretching across eight states. The most consistent is Lake Superior, which not coincidentally happens to be the biggest. Stony Point near Duluth is one of the most famous breaks, but given the small surf community, there are certainly more to be discovered.

Lake Superior is also the coldest of the Lakes, with average water temps ranging from 60°F/15°C down to low 30s°F/0°C from September through December, which is when you want to go. Beyond that, it gets ridiculously cold, and you just might see a chunk of ice floating by.

UNITED STATES Long Island, New York

You’re not likely to find a regional dichotomy in surfing as pronounced as New York. Pulsing New York City is a metropolitan mecca, but the east end of Long Island is renowned for salty New England–style charm.

In between is mostly surfable southfacing coastline with influences of both worlds. On Saturday night you’re hopping taxis from a tapas bar on the Lower East Side to a rocking party in Brooklyn. By Sunday morning, you might be staring over a cliff at lines of groundswell filtering in as fishing boats steam out for the day’s catch. Rockaway is the full urban wave.

The epicenter is Long Beach, which hosted the 2011 Quiksilver New York Pro. This city by the sea with jettydotted beach breaks can produce anything from dreamy to dredging. Out east offers options of points and a few rock reefs. It’s not the most consistent surf in the world, nor the place for a budget traveler. It’s solid for tactical strikes on hurricanes or

retrograding winter low-pressure systems with north winds—or simply just to get wet while you’re taking in that New York culture.

Dreams can come true outside of Manhattan, too.

Frigid, fresh water surf awaits in Minnesota.

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UNITED STATES San Diego County, California

Orange County may hold the title of worldwide capital of the surf industry, but there’s little doubt that San Diego has it beat (and most of the rest of the state) when it comes to a mix of pure wave quality, diversity, and

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consistency. In the winter, select reefs in La Jolla and Point Loma handle solid northwest swells. Then there’s the real jewel of the county, Blacks, a world-famous beach break that serves up powerful A-frames funneled and amplified by one of the deepest near-shore underwater canyons in the world. In the summer, the south-facing beaches of the northern edge of the

county are the call, with Oceanside harbor and pier being the focus. There are hundreds more nooks and crannies of fun surf, and San Diego has a wave for every experience level and mood. It goes without saying that the lineups are packed, and exponentially so at the high-profile spots, but if you can outsmart the man and sneak some late morning

weekday sessions in, there are still open windows to be had. With the motto of “America’s Finest City,” it may not win an award for modesty, but apart from a lack of the cultural depth, it’s pretty well near paradise.

Joel Tudor, Blacks. Left, Oceanside, looking south from the pier.

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MEXICO Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Known as the “Mexican Pipeline,” Puerto Escondido packs one hell of a punch. Home to several breaks, “Puerto,” as it’s known, is most famous for its bone-jarring beach break, Playa Zicatela. With an offshore canyon funneling south swells into the hard-packed sand bottom break, Playa

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Zicatela can get up to 25-foot (8-m) and still hold shape. With offshore winds grooming the waves just about every morning, it’s best to get out into the lineup early, when oftentimes you can find a peak to yourself. Another trick is to surf when the wind comes up around 11:00 a.m., when the beach break becomes a rippable, skate park with ramps galore. If a thick-lipped beach break sans channel seems like

too much to handle, fret not: there’s a perfect left point known as “La Punta” on the southern end of the beach, which is a quick taxi ride away and is usually half the size of the beach break. Packed with bars, restaurants, and discotheques, the little puebla that Californian surfers first stumbled upon in the ’70s has grown into a bustling city with a Wild West vibe to it—meaning be careful at night and don’t make

yourself a target. Despite the occasional dust up or robbery, Puerto is the go-to spot for surfers looking to test their mettle against one of the heaviest beach breaks in the world.

Raw power at Playa Zicatela. Right, Koa Rothman.

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CARIBBEAN Barbados

In the sleepy town of Bathsheba, on the east coast of Barbados, lies one of the greatest waves on earth: Soup Bowls. If we compiled a “10 wonders of the world” list of surf spots, Soup

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Bowls would undoubtedly make it. Need proof? Just ask Kelly Slater, who claims the wave as his all-time favorite. And it’s no wonder why: at 8–10 feet (2.5–3 m), Soup Bowls turns into a mutated, backless slab—a right barrel so unique it’s unrivaled, incomparable to any other on the globe. In February of 2005, Slater had

a session so amazing out there he claimed he’d “live it over and over for the rest of my life if I could.” But what makes Soup Bowls even more special is its consistency, and the ability to turn a two-foot windchop into a steep, highly shreddable “bowl.” It is the most aptly named wave in the Caribbean, and thanks to its vast

eastern exposure, it’s surfable on almost any day of the year.

Brian Toth. Right, Cory Lopez.

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SOUTH AMERICA Northern Peru

If you’re a fan of hollow, sand bottom left point breaks, northern Peru is heaven on Earth. With a landscape that can only be described as lunar, the area around Mancora

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isn’t what you would describe as inviting—except for the surf. Left points that break over sandy bottoms litter the area, and on a big north swell, rides of more than 100 yards (90 m) are considered short. Spots like Cabo Blanco and Mancora are the marquee names, but given a substantial north swell, around every

bend in the dirt road there’s another draining left. History points at Peruvians as being some of the first people to ever ride waves on woven reed “surfboards,” and the surf history in the region is as deep as anywhere. While the locals can get a bit territorial, with the right attitude and right-place, right-time

bit of luck, some of the best highperformance waves in the world can be found in the inhospitable climes of northern Peru.

Northern Peru may have the highest concentration of epic lefts on the planet. Both images, Clay Marzo.

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EUROPE Ireland

Irish surfing is hopping farmer’s fences and running through fields of grazing livestock to reach the paddle-out spot, catching a rare wave going off during a two-hour window, and watching the madness unfold at a life or death session at Mullaghmore. It’s being at home in a cold ocean of dark, heavy water,

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and being comfortable with the country’s potential for even darker and heavier weather. It’s a land of gorgeous women, big smiles, old stories told in thick accents, and warming up with a Guinness. This is a land where hardiness, dedication, and commitment are as crucial to maintaining a surfing life as wax, wetsuit, and board. The range and quality of surf on offer is incredible, and the spread of beach breaks, rivermouths, reefs, points, and slabs

that each turn on with a slight variation in swell and wind direction means there’s a million more waves to be discovered through exploration than through online research. Irish surfing is world-class, bountiful, and unforgettable.

Ireland’s heaviest slab is one of the thickest waves on the planet. Alex Gray.

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INDIAN OCEAN Telo Island, Indonesia

Sitting smack-dab between worldfamous Nias to the north and Siberut (northernmost of the Mentawais) to the south, the Batu Islands are a worthy and lesser-surfed Indonesian

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archipelago, recently made easy to access with the launch of surf camps on tiny Telo Island and the surf boat charter business out of Padang, on the Sumatran mainland. The three main Batu islands are Pini, Tanahmasa, and Tanahbala, and there are 48 smaller islands, mostly uninhabited. There is potential for epic waves

everywhere here, though most Batu surf tourism occurs on consistent Telo Island, a sensible and comfortable base to surf perfect, fun waves like Max’s Right/Left, Pinnacles, and GT’s. That isn’t to say there aren’t more challenging waves nearby, like DC’s, a heavy right. There is typically somewhere to surf around Telo, and

a boat certainly opens the options for accessibility, but you can also just book one of the surf camps and call it good—because good waves are what you will get. Consider the Batu islands a less crowded (for now) version of the Mentawais. Left, Dean Morrison. Right, Alex Gray.

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PACIFIC OCEAN New Caledonia

Grande Terre is New Caledonia’s mountainous, cigar-shaped main island and the South Pacific’s fourth largest, located in the sunny Coral Sea east of Australia, north of New Zealand. Here lies seemingly endless

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outer reef bliss. Splintered from Australia 80 million years ago, Grande Terre’s barrier reef encloses the world’s largest lagoon; the reef is 370 miles (595 km) long, cleaved with more than 200 es from north to south, wide open to swell from the Tasman and Coral seas. All of the surf spots are several miles from land and hence subject to erratic winds, so a

liveaboard boat trip is the go here. It’s a killer thing to do, because you have never embarked—nor do you know anybody who has—on a New Caledonian boat trip. And it’s tough to beat French ambiance amid South Pacific idyll—don’t know about you, but most surfers would rather fly to a city like Nouméa instead of Paris. Tropical reef barrels miles from

land in a warm, turquoise sea hold strong appeal against sandy, semiclosed-out Atlantic beach breaks. is awesome, too, but New Caledonia is off the charts.

You’ll need a boat to surf most spots in New Caledonia, which is a good way to keep the crowds thin. Dean Brady.

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AFRICA Agadir, Morocco

Geography has turned this corner of Africa into a natural-footer’s paradise of right-hand point after right-hand point, and has topped it off with a mix of reefs, beachies, and even a spot to rival Trestles on its highest of high-performance days. This is an area now thick with surf culture, the

western labels and bright colors a stark contrast to the traditional Berber scenes. Anchor Point is the area’s flagship wave and, as it tops the list for many Europeans’ surf trips, it’s handsdown the most crowded. But with so much else on offer in Agadir and its surrounds, from Killers to Boilers to that no-names-mentioned barreling slab that shows up in all the videos, only those devoid of any adventurous bones whatsoever would be content

to surf only this spot. Heading away from Morocco’s surf capital can yield great rewards, the barrels of the more fickle Safi being the dream destination for many. And don’t forget—for those up to the task, the entirety of the Western Sahara awaits. Here, deeper recons are revealing new discoveries with each ing year, with waves as good as they get, and crowds as thin as they come.

The high-profile rights like Anchor Point do a good job of siphoning the crowds away from the area’s other gems. Left, Peter Devries.

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GETTING THERE: Spirit Airlines offers deals to Puerto Plata from Ft Lauderdale, Florida, and roundtrip tickets can often be found for cheap. If you plan to venture out of Cabarete (highly recommended), renting a car is necessary. BE SURE TO BRING: A couple of shortboards will suffice most of the year, as the DR isn’t known for its big-wave spots. However, a couple do spring to life during large winter swells, so check the forecasts and adjust accordingly before embarking on a trip. BE INFORMED: Windguru.com and magicseaweed.com are good forecasting tools, and wannasurf.com has plenty of information about the varying surf breaks on offer.

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SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO

THE BASICS: Puerto Rico, traditionally known as “Borinquen” to the native Taino Indians, or “La Isla Del Encanto” (The Isle of Enchantment) to its many tourists, is located in the Central North Atlantic Ocean. WHEN TO GO: October to March is prime time for surf in Puerto Rico. That said, September can be epic depending on tropical activity, and April and even May can sometimes deliver the goods. THE MOOD: In the dead of winter, even Florida can feel downright frigid. Not so in Puerto Rico. And despite its location amidst dozens of island nations that are classified as international destinations and require the associated paperwork, Puerto Rico is part of the good ol’ U.S. of A. That means you’ll have the same currency and conviences alongside an endless supply of Latin flavor and culture. GETTING THERE: Most major airports along the East Coast have nonstop flights to San Juan, and many go straight into Aguadilla, which is smack dab in the middle of the most highly-surfed coasts. Once you touch down you’ll need wheels, and it’s completely safe to rent from Hertz, National, or Avis and head on your way. If you plan to be around for more than a couple weeks, you might as well buy a used car and save yourself some cash. BE SURE TO BRING: Trunks, sunscreen, and all the other stuff you’d bring to a warm-water locale, plus a step up or mini-gun ’cause it can get juicy. Surf shops abound and you’ll never be far from one if you’re on the beach. But the most important thing to bring is a good attitude. The Puerto Ricans locals can be a pleasure to surf with, if you behave like a visitor. Carry yourself like an obnoxious tourist, and it could be a rough trip.

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NORTHWEST PUERTO RICO

THE BASICS: The northwest corner of Puerto Rico—generally considered all points, beaches, nooks, and crannies between the towns of Rincon and Isabela—is the most sought-after 20-mile (32-km) stretch in the entire Caribbean, and for good reason. WHEN TO GO: Between November and April, you won’t be disappointed. During that six-month time frame, cold fronts consistently drop off the East Coast and into the Atlantic Ocean, churning up solid north swell trains that march directly into Puerto Rico. THE MOOD: The array of surf spots littering this area make it a satiating surf destination for everyone from salty old surf dogs to young grommets. Along this stretch you’ll find family-friendly waves like Domes and Maria’s, heavy water venues like Tres Palmas and Wilderness, sand-packed suckouts like Gas Chambers and Crash Boat, and consistent, everyday reef breaks like Middles and Jobos.

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GETTING THERE: Fly into Aguadilla (BQN), as it’s located directly in the middle of the aforementioned surf spots. Only downside: BQN airport has a wacky schedule, meaning you’re likely to arrive and depart at 4:00 a.m., so to plan accordingly. BE SURE TO BRING: The Third World this is not, so leave the emergency medical kits, malaria shots, canned goods, and giant ding-repair kits at home. Bring the essentials (boards, trunks, sunscreen, wax) and you’re set.

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TORTOLA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

THE BASICS: Tortola is located within the British Virgin Islands, 60 miles (97 km) east of Puerto Rico. The largest and most populated of the BVI, Tortola spans 13.5 miles (22 km) end to end and is three miles (5 km) across at its widest point. The island (along with the 50 other islets and cays that make up the BVI) has been dubbed by some as “nature’s little secret,” due to its stunning scenery and turquoise water. There are three main breaks here: Apple Bay, a fairly consistent reef break that resembles well-known Lower Trestles; Josiah’s Bay, a soft, beginner-friendly beach break; and Cane Garden Bay, an inconsistent—though at times world-class—right point. WHEN TO GO: For a chance at surf, November to March is the best season to visit. That’s when large winter lowpressure systems push off the United States’ eastern seaboard and into the Atlantic, sending groomed open ocean groundswell to the north facing shores of the Caribbean. The summer months are typically dead flat, and even in the winter the wait between swells can be grueling. Unlike Puerto Rico, Tortola’s surfable coastline is situated to the northwest and does not pick up any east trade swell. If there isn’t a low pressure spinning in the Atlantic Ocean, don’t expect much surf.

waves on the west side of the island where the winds blow offshore and bright blue water beckons. THE MOOD: It’s the Caribbean, mon! Barbados exemplifies a laid-back lifestyle, and they know how to make good rum to boot. The island is a popular destination for tourists worldwide, and if you’re looking for a place to party, there’s plenty of that, too. Saint Lawrence Gap, on the south coast, boasts happening nights full of beautiful people seven nights a week. GETTING THERE: It’s not the cheapest destination in the world, but nowhere in the Caribbean is. Flights from Miami are usually the best round-trip deal, and a rental car is recommended, but not required. If staying in Bathsheba, check out the Edgewater Inn, a nice hotel walking distance from Soup Bowls. BE SURE TO BRING: Sunscreen, for starters. Barbados is notorious for its brutal sunburns. Otherwise a pair of boardshorts and a couple of shortboards will suffice—and maybe a little something extra to leave with the locals upon departure. There is a booming surf scene in Barbados, and plenty of upstart groms in need of trunks and tees. BE INFORMED: Sea Urchins cover the reef in thick layers, so tread softly. Getting in and out of the water is an art form— take note of the locals’ approach. Oh, and don’t forget a good set of tweezers. Trust us, you’ll need them.

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BARBADOS

THE BASICS: Barbados is the easternmost island in the Lesser Antilles and attracts swell year round. Soup Bowls, in the town of Bathsheba, is the most consistently-surfable wave in the Caribbean, and a few times each year, when conditions come together, one of the best waves on Earth. WHEN TO GO: There is fun surf to be found on Barbados’ east coast virtually every day between October and March, but don’t expect clean conditions—the ever-present Atlantic tradewinds are ruthless. However, if you plan a strike mission during a solid north swell, there are at least a dozen

GETTING THERE: Many international airports offer nonstop flights to Guatemala City (GUA). Once there, you can take the three-hour bus to the beach, rent a car, hire a shuttle, or, if all else fails, hitchhike—which is quite common within the city. Your best bet, though, is to rent a car and buy a good driving map at the airport. In Iztapa, a short boat ride is mandatory to cross saltwater channels that separate the beach and the town from the waves at the jetties and La Barra. Once across, you won’t be disappointed. BE SURE TO BRING: Take everything including your favorite beach break boards and a solid step-up. Surf shops are nonexistent along the coast, so a ding-repair kit, lots of warm water wax, and a few pairs of trunks will do the trick. Also, the local kids love stickers and any Spanish you can muster will be invaluable. Don’t forget the sunscreen!

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GETTING THERE: Though there is no airport on Tortola, Beef Island to the east connects by bridge. You can find daily flights to Beef Island (EIS), or fly to nearby St. Thomas (STT) and take the hour-long ferry into Soper’s Hole, found on Tortola’s west end.

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THE MOOD: Guatemala boasts more than 30 volcanoes, Mayan ruins poised to leave you breathless, and cities like Antigua and Likin with cobblestone streets and canal systems that will remind you of old Europe. Waves are consistent, crowds are minimal, and if you do some research beforehand, you can surf alone, eat great food, chat with friendly locals, and have the trip of a lifetime.

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THE MOOD: Though catching one good wave at Cane Garden Bay when it’s firing is worth the trip alone, it’s never a guarantee. Ignore the swell maps and guides and plan your trip around the lunar cycle. The once-monthly full moon parties at the Bomba Shack, located on the beach at Apple Bay, are one of a kind.

BE SURE TO BRING: The surf rarely gets huge on Tortola, so a couple of shortboards and a step-up will do just fine. Bring a wetsuit top and spring suit as well, because the winter trade winds can feel awfully chilly in contrast to the warm Caribbean water, especially in the morning. Most importantly, bring patience and a good attitude. Flat spells here can last weeks, so be prepared. Tortola is one of the most beautiful places on earth, so sit back, mix yourself a rum cocktail, and enjoy life.

is just ending. That’s when the sandbars are groomed, offshore winds are frequent, and river mouths and beach breaks really turn on. During the rainy season (July through February), bigger waves can be had and you can still find yourself surfing alone—just that it’s tourist season, so you may have to share.

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GUATEMALA

THE BASICS: One of the most beautiful and underexposed countries in Central America, Guatemala is often overlooked on the surfer’s radar due to the lack of points and reefs of its neighbors Mexico and El Salvador. But Guatemala is the most technologically advanced nation in Central America, and boasts beautiful cities, wonderful people, excellent food, and some of the finest beach breaks around. With plenty of river mouths, piers, and jetties thrown into the mix, the barrels to be found here will make you forget all about the crowded reefs and points in those neighboring countries to the north and south. WHEN TO GO: With so much of its coast open to all types of south and north swells, Guatemala rarely drops below waist high, with chest-high surf consistent at many breaks. March through June is generally the time to score the best combination of waves and weather, as the rainy season

EL SALVADOR

THE BASICS: El Salvador is wedged between Guatemala and Honduras on the Pacific Ocean of Central America. Since its civil war between the government and socialist left-wing guerrillas in the 1980s, El Salvador has become a stable country that welcomes visitors. The coast is divided into two primary surf regions; the breaks in and around La Libertad in the west, and the “wild east.” WHEN TO GO: March through October is El Salvador’s rainy season—and not coincidentally, also the best time to be at one of its many points. THE MOOD: Look forward to a surf binge that will send you home rashed, burnt, stung, and absolutely stoked. The breaks around La Libertad can get crowded with locals and travelers and even the east can get busy, especially in the morning hours when the surf camps descend on a limited number of points. If the surf gets flat, consider yourself lucky. Check out the Montecristo cloud forest and the Mayan ruins of Tazumal, meaning “place where the victims were burned,” in Quiche. GETTING THERE: There are direct flights from LAX to San Salvador on Taca and LACSA. You can also book an all-inclusive package through Wave Hunters. These packages often include airport pick-up and drop-off, meals, boat and vehicle access, comfortable air-conditioned accommodations, and general peace of mind. BE SURE TO BRING: Sunscreen, tropical wax, boardies, sunscreen, T-shirts, and—yes—more sunscreen are a must. Bring everything you need for surfing, because although there are a few shops in La Libertad, eastward you are on your own. Unless you want to be borrowing Old Man Wither’s 11-foot longboard leash, come prepared. Your standard board for overhead point breaks will suffice. Bring a few extra shirts and boardies to give to the locals in exchange for a set wave or two.

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November rolls around, the rains begin to fall, and the southeast trades slowly swing around to blow northeasterly, grooming Coral Coast waves, which in spring can be surprisingly good and blissfully empty. THE MOOD: You just can’t go wrong with Fiji. Viti Levu is the archipelago’s hub for everything, including the surfing community, and just north is the Namotu area, as well as numerous surf zones along Viti Levu’s pretty Coral Coast, eastward all the way to Suva. GETTING THERE: Most flights land at Nadi International Airport (NAN), on the west side of Viti Levu, not far from Tavarua. Air New Zealand and Air Pacific offer direct daily flights from Los Angeles, Honolulu, Auckland, and east Australia. You can also fly from Australia directly to Suva. If you’re not staying at an all-inclusive resort, renting a car can be useful. Driving is done on the left side of the road. BE SURE TO BRING: Fiji epitomizes the South Pacific, and when you think of the South Pacific, what do you need there? Boardshorts, tropical wax, light clothing, a few barrel-tuned boards, and plenty of sunblock. A surf hat and reef booties can be handy, too. Money, too, because those South Pacific resorts ain’t cheap.

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TONGATAPU, TONGA

THE BASICS: Tongatapu Island sits in the warm South Pacific Ocean south of Samoa, between Fiji and French Polynesia, 1,875 miles (3,018 km) east of Australia. WHEN TO GO: If you want all-day offshore wind and left-handers, go between May and September to reap swells that come from the Roaring Forties. The best swells are those from storms above New Zealand—since the swells have to wrap from the southwest to face Ha’atafu’s northwest-facing reefs. It is also during these months that the southeast trade winds occur. From October to April, swells from the North Pacific winter can make it down to the Ha’atafu area and make for some fine right-handers. THE MOOD: Tongatapu is a unique and fun surfing destination. It’s easy to reach, there’s a good surf camp smack dab on Ha’atafu Beach, the waves can be epic, the wind’s offshore, and the climate is mild. What more could you want? Tonga itself is an interesting country and a constitutional monarchy—the only place in Polynesia to have never been colonized. The wave quality is excellent, and it’s your choice which direction or season you go. GETTING THERE: Coming from the USA, you fly to Fua‘amotu International Airport (TBU) from Nadi on Fiji Airways. From Auckland or Sydney, you can fly with Air New Zealand or Virgin Australia. Once in Tonga, you can rent a car and drive west to Ha’atafu, or you can make things easy and just arrange pick-up from the nice family who runs Ha’atafu Beach Resort or another resort you choose to stay with. BE SURE TO BRING: There are no surf shops on Tongatapu, so bring everything you’ll need—especially reef booties and a first-aid kit in case you get slammed onto the healthy coral reef (though the resorts have emergency supplies). Sitting at a low latitude, Tonga is subtropical, so you won’t need a ton of clothing; sunblock and hats are always good. Pack a wetsuit vest or a springsuit, too. The temps can get surprisingly cool at night.

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‘UPOLU, SAMOA

THE BASICS: The rugged volcanic coastline of ‘Upolu, Samoa’s second-largest island, sits smack-dab in the center of the sultry South Pacific.

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WHEN TO GO: For the south coast, the best months to go are April through July, with April having the least wind. The east-southeast trade winds can be a buzzkill during the dry season, which is also the surf season for the south coast. The north coast, meanwhile, pumps from November to March. Fall is generally a good time for both coasts, since south swells often last into October. THE MOOD: A diverse collection of powerful coral-reef barrels and rich culture right in the heart of Polynesia. Samoa is regarded as the most traditional of all Polynesian nations, and ‘Upolu boasts an incredibly lush, steaming landscape, consistent swell, pristine surf spots, and friendly locals (as long as you’re chill—there are few things scarier than an angry Samoan dude). GETTING THERE: All international flights land at Faleolo International Airport (APW) in Apia, the capital of ‘Upolu. You can fly direct from New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii. Once there, you can rent a car (we recommend renting a 4WD Jeep), hire taxis, or take the public bus, which stops near several surf spots and is fun but not really comfortable. You can also stay at one of the surf resorts. BE SURE TO BRING: Obviously, ‘Upolu is tropical, so you won’t need a lot of clothing; sunblock, rain slicker, and a hat are always good, though. There are no surf shops on ‘Upolu, so bring everything you’ll need, especially reef booties, because most of the reefs are super sharp and pretty shallow. You’ll need a few surfboards that work in steep, hollow waves of consequence.

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RAROTONGA, COOK ISLANDS

THE BASICS: As the largest of the 15-island Cooks archipelago, Rarotonga lies smack-dab in the center of the South Pacific Ocean, surrounded on all sides by Tokelau, Samoa, Nuie, and Tahiti. WHEN TO GO: Rarotonga has waves year-round, thanks to various reef es facing different swell windows. The best surf, however, usually happens during the austral summer (November to March), when strong North Pacific storms feed swell to the South Pacific, and meet the prevailing southeasterly trade winds, causing favorable offshore conditions on Rarotonga’s northern and western shores. The austral winter (May to September) is much more consistent, offering strong south swell, but unfortunately the trades can be harsh. Get it glassy, though, and you’re in for a treat. THE MOOD: What many consider to be a cheaper and less-touristy version of Tahiti, Rarotonga is the capital of the Cooks, a lovely volcanic island surrounded by a pristine barrier reef. The terrain is lush and verdant, featuring dramatic mountain peaks and dense rain forest, much like Tahiti. Although there are no Teahupoos on Rarotonga, the island has its own array of consistent, hard-hitting reef- waves, generally reserved for surfers who are comfortable in shallow South Pacific juice. GETTING THERE: Air New Zealand and Virgin Australia are the only international carriers serving Rarotonga International Airport. From Los Angeles, Air New Zealand even has a direct flight. Once on the island, getting around is easy (driving is done on the left side of the road), and car rental rates are reasonable. You can rent a car, motor scooter, or bicycle at the airport, but we recommend the car if you’re driving around with surfboards. Since the road follows the coast around the entire island, access to surf spots is easy and straightforward. BE SURE TO BRING: Rarotonga, much like Fiji, epitomizes the South Pacific, so pack what you’ll need for another adventure there. Boardshorts, tropical wax, a few barrel-

tuned boards, and plenty of sunblock. Reef booties are a major necessity, too, since accessing many of the spots requires a slow stroll over urchins and coral.

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TUAMOTU ISLANDS, FRENCH POLYNESIA

THE BASICS: The heart of French Polynesia, the 77 Tuamotu atolls occupy a vast swath of the South Pacific Ocean, west of Tahiti and south of Hawaii. WHEN TO GO: Generally the waves are much more consistent in the warm, humid austral summer (November to March), when North Pacific juice pumps out clean, longperiod swells that favor select reef es. South swells can work some magic at a few spots, too, but they generally face the prevailing onshore tradewinds. THE MOOD: This is a classic South Seas island paradise for those who prefer a slow pace of life, pristine waters, and the exotic blend of Polynesian culture and French traditions. It is also a paradise for surfers who prefer a bit of barrel with their waves—or in some cases, a lot of barrel, as some of the spots are a tube-hound’s dream. The Tuamotus feel truly “out there,” much more so than neighboring Tahiti and the rest of the Society Islands. GETTING THERE: You first have to get to Tahiti, since all flights to the Tuamotus are via Faa’a International Airport (PPT) in Papeete. From there, Air Tahiti flies to many of the atolls. Once at your atoll of choice, depending on its tourism infrastructure, you might stay at a plush resort or in a rustic local pension. Renting a car isn’t practical, but becoming friendly with a boat owner/driver can be. BE SURE TO BRING: The Tuamotus are home to a hot, tropical climate, and the sun is fierce, so light clothing and good sunscreen are two essentials. For surfboards you will need something to successfully thread the tube. The waves don’t usually get huge here, but can be sizeable. Boardshorts, rash guard, sun hat, and reef booties might also come in handy. So might a good book or two, since local entertainment is basically nil.

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RAPA NUI (EASTER ISLAND)

THE BASICS: Rapa Nui, commonly known as Easter Island, is a tiny Pacific rock teeming with Polynesian culture and formidable reef breaks. One of the most remote islands in the world, Rapa Nui lies more than 2,000 miles (3,200 km) west of Chile. WHEN TO GO: To capitalize on the south swells, you want to be there between April and September. Keep in mind, this is winter in the southern hemisphere, so you may have to endure some heavy winter storms. The bookends of the season will probably be your best bet, and a good strategy is to plan to be there for at least three weeks, so you can take in the good and the bad. THE MOOD: If your local break doesn’t offer the challenge it once did when you were a grom, Rapa Nui has no shortage of empty, gut-wrenching slabs—especially on the southeast side of the island—to put your skills to the test. Deepocean southern hemi swells march for thousands of miles, uninterrupted, until they lurch and crash violently on the island’s urchin-encrusted reefs. If you’re looking for mellow, rolling point breaks, this might not be the destination for you. However, there are a handful of -friendly spots in the main town of Hanga Roa, where you can get in a fun surf between a morning visit to the moai and a sunset cocktail. GETTING THERE: Tahiti, Peru, and Chile have the only

airports that offer flights to Mataveri International Airport (IPC). Prices vary greatly depending on your route. There is only one road that circles the island along the coastline, and all of the breaks are close to shore, so finding the spots won’t be a problem. BE SURE TO BRING: You will want everything from a shortboard to the biggest board you’re comfortable riding. Water temps change from day to day, especially with the strong winds on the island. A 3/2 mm fullsuit should be more than sufficient for the coldest of days. But most likely you’ll find yourself in trunks and a vest.

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NEW CALEDONIA

THE BASICS: Grande Terre, New Caledonia’s mountainous, cigar-shaped main island and the South Pacific’s fourthlargest, is located in the sunny Coral Sea, east of Australia and north of New Zealand. WHEN TO GO: From May to September, when Roaring Forties-spawned swell squeezes between Australia and New Zealand, running up the Tasman Sea and plowing into Grande Terre’s southwest-facing reef es. Prevailing winds are side/offshore. The surf can also fire—albeit less frequently—during the period from September to May, when cyclones thrash the Coral Sea. THE MOOD: Seemingly endless outer-reef- bliss. Splintered from Australia 80 million years ago, Grande Terre’s barrier reef encloses the world’s largest lagoon. The reef is 370 miles (595 km) long, cleaved with more than 200 es from north to south, and wide open to swell from the Tasman and Coral seas. All of the surf spots are several miles from land and hence subject to erratic winds, so a liveaboard boat trip is the best way to go. GETTING THERE: You can fly from Korea, Tahiti, Japan, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Zealand, or Australia straight to La Tontouta International Airport (NOU) on Aircalin, which is about 30 miles (48 km) from Nouméa, New Caledonia’s international gateway. Once there, you can hook up with your boat charter, local surf camp operator, pen pal, good friend, or simply have a go at it yourself. BE SURE TO BRING: Pack for a tropical trip and bring everything you’ll need in of surf gear, because there are no surf shops in New Caledonia. As for surfboards, you’ll want something for punchy reef- barrels. To combat any downtime doldrums, bring plenty of reading material and music, swim fins, and a snorkeling mask.

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TAHITI, FRENCH POLYNESIA

THE BASICS: Tahiti is a tropical island in the South Pacific ringed by palm trees, coral reefs, and incredible surf. A fivehour flight south of Hawaii, many compare Tahiti to what the Hawaiian Islands were like 50 years ago, when they, too, were an unspoiled island paradise. WHEN TO GO: There’s surf year-round on Tahiti but your best bet is to go between April and October, when south swells pummel the island and light up the famous (and not so famous) offshore reef es. THE MOOD: Slow down, you’re on island time! There’s no rush, and that includes restaurants, bars, transportation, and life in general. Dawn patrol means a leisurely paddle-out at 9:00 a.m. It’s also perfectly acceptable to imbibe in the local brew, Hinano, at any time of the day. GETTING THERE: Flights arrive daily from the entire Pacific Rim. Once you’re there, your transportation options range from renting a car to hitchhiking to the public buses called

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President, CEO Terry Newell VP, Publisher Roger Shaw Executive Editor Mariah Bear Editor Bridget Fitzgerald Creative Director Kelly Booth Art Director William Mack Project Art Director Iain Morris Senior Designer Meghan Hildebrand Photography Coordinator Conor Buckley Production Director Chris Hemesath Production Manager Michelle Duggan

Editor Casey Koteen Photo Editor Aaron Checkwood Creative Content Editor Chris Coté Managing Editor Zander Morton Online Editor Justin Coté Publisher Charlie Anderson

Weldon Owen would also like to thank Ian Cannon and Katharine Moore for editorial assistance. Suzi Hutsell and Sarah Edelstein provided design and production help. © 2013 Weldon Owen Inc. 415 Jackson Street San Francisco, CA 94111 www.weldonowen.com All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Weldon Owen is a division of Library of Congress Control Number on file with the publisher. ISBN 13: 978-1-61628-545-6 ISBN 10: 1-61628-545-1 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2013 2014 2015 Printed by TWP in Singapore.

WRITING CREDITS CASEY KOTEEN: Bells Beach, Central Costa Rica, Coolangatta, El Salvador, Great Lakes, Half Moon Bay, Los Angeles, Los Cabos, Mentawais, Northern Nicaragua, North Shore Oahu, Orange County, Puerto Vallarta, San Diego, San Francisco, Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, Saquerema, Southern Nicaragua, and additional content. MICHAEL KEW: Chile, Cloud Nine, Dubai, French Polynesia, Iceland, Lakshadweep, Madagascar, Maldives, Micronesia, New Caledonia, Norway, Rapa Nui, Rarotonga, Reunion, Samoa, Senegal, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Telo Islands, Tonga, Vancouver Island. ZANDER MORTON: Barbados, British Virgin Islands, Central Florida, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Guatemala, Northern Costa Rica, Northwest Puerto Rico, Outer Banks, San Juan. ZACHARY PLOPPER: Bocas del Toro, Cornwall, Mundaka, New Zealand, North

PHOTO CREDITS England, Panama, Portugal, Salina Cruz, Scorpion Bay, Wales, Zijuatenejo. CRAIG RITCHIE: Canary Islands, Cape Town, G-Land, Ireland, Jeffrey’s Bay, Morocco, Mozambique, Namibia, Scotland. KIRK OWERS: Burleigh Heads, Byron Bay, Margaret River, Noosa Heads, Northwest Australia, Southern Australia, Surfer’s Paradise, Sydney, Tasmania, Western Australia. JUSTIN COTÉ: Fiji, Huatulco, Maui, Northern Peru, Playgrounds, Puerto Escondido, South Shore Oahu, Tahiti. JON COEN: New Jersey, New York, Nova Scotia. CHRIS COTÉ: Bali, Biarritz, Hossegor. MATIAS LOVRO: Fernando de Noronha, Rio De Janeiro.

Patrick Stacy: Cover William Bailey: 110–112, 114; Brent Bielmann: 41, 44, 108, 126, 136, 141, 146, 170, 209; Brian Bielmann: 1, 6, 137, 156, 171, 238; Chris Burkard: 2, 10–13, 28–31, 54, 70, 77–80, 98, 102–105, 122, 128; Tom Carey: 55, 57, 89, 91–92, 138, 160–161; Aaron Checkwood: endpapers, 8 (left), 24, 35, 46–48, 53, 75–76; Ryan Craig: 27, 95, 109, 240; Hilton Dawe: 164–165, 187; Damea Dorsey: 36, 49–51, 116–117, 120, 124, 180; Greg Ewing: 132–133, 202–203, 205, 208, 210; Anthony Ghiglia: 34, 38–39, 118; Stuart Gibson: 194–195; Spence Hornby: 188; Jason Kenworthy: 45; Mike Killion: 16; Jeremiah Klein: 25; Alex Laurel: 119, 123, 201; Nick LaVecchia: 14; Matt Lusk: 20–21; Al Mackinnon: 100, 106, 113, 206; Alex Marks: 189; Richard Meseroll: 22; Ryan Miller: 62–63, 72–73, 88, 94, 121; Bill Morris: 192; David Nelson: 26, 154;

Zak Noyle: 42, 52, 148, 166; Russell Ord: 175; Tony Roberts: 74, 81, 176; William Sharp: 32–33; Scotty Sherin: 15; Andrew Shield: 8 (right), 9, 40, 43, 129, 134, 142, 149–153, 162–163, 168, 172–174, 178–179, 182–186, 190–191, 196–197; Seth Stafford: 8 (center), 17–19, 58, 64–69, 82–87, 90, 96, 144, 200-201, 212; Carl Steindler: 37, 56; Chris Straley: 4; Alan Van Gysen: 130–131, 198–200, 204, 213; Billy Watts: 158–159; Simon Williams: 139–140; Shutterstock: 215, 216–217, 238.

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