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Pull-out Daybed
This daybed has a pull-out section to increase the width to a queen size or larger. The basic design is similar to the Hemnes brand daybed, but there are some notable differences. This bed extends up to 33″ for a total width of 72″, which is wider than a queen, but not as wide as two twins. You could use it with a full size foam or futon mattress, or get a combination of a twin, and a “single” or “bunk” mattress that measures 30″ to 33″ in width.
It disassembles with 6 bolts into 6 smaller pieces, so it should fit into any vehicle that can carry the mattress. It is a fairly complex build, but others have noted that the store bought version is pretty complicated even in kit form. This one does not require any specialty tools, and all connections can be made with screws or nails strait through the board faces. A miter saw is helpful to get square cuts, and a carpenter’s square to get the assembly strait.
Shopping List 9 – 1×2 x 8′ 12 – 1×3 x 8′ 8 – 1×4 x 10′ (or 13 @ 8′) 5 – 1×6 x 6′ (or 4 @ 8′) 2 – 3/8×1.5 x 8′ drawer trim 1 – 4′ x 8′ x 3/16″ veneer or masonite (for drawer bottoms) 1 – 4′ x 8′ x 1/4″ beadboard or finish plywood 2 – 1.5″ swivel casters (floor to platform height of 2.25″) 2 – 24″ rolling drawer slide sets 6 – 3″ x 1/4″ carriage bolts with washers & nuts 50 – 2″ screws 100 – 1.25″ screws finish nails glue If the 10 footers do not fit in your vehicle, ask the lumber store to cut them at 40″/80″. That will give you a couple inches to spare on all cuts.
Cut List
1 – 1×2 x 79.5″ – top 2 – 1×2 x 12″ – vert back 1 – 1×2 x 74″ – Tray lower front 2 – 1×2 x 74″ – slat rails 2 – 1×2 x 68.5″ – slat rails 2 – 1×2 x 69″ – Tray fronts 1 – 1×2 x 6″ – tray center front 1 – 1×2 x 6.5″ – tray center back 1 – 1×2 x 35.5″ – tray center bottom 1 – 1×2 x 2.25″ – tray foot 4 – 1×2 x 13.5″ – side trim 3 – 1×3 x 79.5″ – Back & lower 2 – 1×3 x 39.5″ – arms 2 – 1×3 x 38″ – slats 2 – 1×3 x 35″ – arm supp 2 – 1×3 x 36″ – legs 6 – 1×3 x 24″ – legs 4 – 1×3 x 12.75″ – filler 4 – 1×3 x 8.75″ – filler 2 – 1×3 x 74″ – tray back 2 1×3 35.5 – tray end base 1 – 1×3 x 34.75″ – tray center 2 – 1×3 x 12″ – tray legs 2 – 1×3 x 8.25″ – tray back verticals 2 1×3 5″ – tray front verticals 2 – 1×4 x 74.5″ – back 1 – 1×4 x 79″ – tray 10 – 1×4 x 37″ – slats 9 – 1×4 x 38″ – slats 2 – 1×4 x 34″ – tray sides 2 – 1×6 x 35″ – ends 2 – 1×6 x 32.75″ – drawer fronts 2 – 1×6 x 31.25″ – drawer backs 4 – 1×6 x 23.75″ – drawer sides 4 – 3/8 x 1.5 x 34.5″ – drawer trim – both ends cut 45 degrees, trapezoid, measured on long edge 4 – 3/8 x 1.5 x 6.5″ – drawer trim – both ends cut 45 degrees, trapezoid, measured on long edge 2 3/16” x 32.25×25.5 – drawer bottoms 2 1/4” x 18h x35w – ends 2 1/4” x 22.5h x 38.25w – back
Step 1 – Build the Back frame
Attach an 8.75″ piece of filler to each of the 36″ legs, aligned with the bottom, using nails and glue. Lay a 79.5″ 1×3 on a 74.5″ 1×4, with one edge aligned, with each end extending 2 and a half inches. Glue and nail together, nailing through the 1×3 into the 1×4 (the opposite side of the 1×4 is the visible side).
Attach the top 1×2 to the aligned edge of the 2 boards, aligned with then ends of the 1×3. Nails and glue are sufficient, assuming the glue ts are clamped while drying.
Make another 1×3 on 1×4 for the lower rail, with one edge aligned, with each end extending 2 and a half inches. This one does not have the extra 1×2. Lay the legs about 74″ apart, and set lower rail assembly across, against the top of the filler pieces, with the extended portion of the 1×4 towards the top of the legs. Attach using glue and 2 screws, keeping the screws away from the center of the t (you will be putting a bolt through the center later).
Flip that assembly over, and set the assembled top rail across the top ends of the legs. Screw through the 1×3 top rail into the back of the legs, and add glue to the t.
Attach the 1×2 verticals to the outside edge of the legs, immediately below the top rail.
Also attach the 12.75″ filler pieces above the lower rail, and the large beadboard s on the back.
Step 2 – Build the Front Rail Build 2 front legs, using 2 of the best 24″ pieces. Attach one 8.75″ filler and one 12.75″ filler to each leg using glue and nails. Make sure the gap between the filler pieces allows the width of the 1×3 rail to fit tightly between them. Nail through the filler piece, so the heads are not visible on the 24″ piece.
Attach the main 79.5″ rail, using glue and 2 screws on each end. Position the screws about 3/4″ from the corners of the rail.
Step 3 – Build the End Pieces Pre-drill the remaining 24″ legs with 2 holes each, 3/4″ from the edge, at 3.5″ and 7″ from the bottom. Attach a 35″ 1×6 between them with glue and 2″ screws, with the top edge 8″ from the bottom of the legs, and 3/8″ in from the edge. Note: having properly squared ends on the 1×4 will help keep the whole thing square (don’t trust the factory cut to be perfectly square).
Now install a 35″ 1×3 between the legs, with the top edge aligned with the top of the legs, also set 3/8″ in from the edge. Pre-drill holes, and use glue and screws. Install the top armrest on each end piece, in mirror image. Each arm extends 3/4″ in the back, and 2.25″ in the front. Make sure that one has the side rails on the left, and the other has the rails on the right, when viewed from the front. Use glue and finish nails.
Attache 1×2 pieces to each leg, spanning from the top rail to the bottom. Nail or screw through the leg into the edge of the 1×2. (The surface of these legs will not be visible when assembled, so all screw heads will be hidden.)
Step 4 – Build the Rolling Frame Components
To create the end pieces of the rolling frame, pre-drill holes in the 8.25″ and 5″ 1x3s at 3/4″ and 2 3/4″ from one end, centered across the width. Attach one of each to either end of the 34″ tray sides, with screws and glue, aligning the edge of the side piece with the end of the smaller pieces.
Now attach the 35.5″ tray end base to align with the end pieces, using glue and nails. You’ll need two identical pieces. Create the center section of the rolling frame in a similar manner, using a 1×3 for the rail, and 1x2s for the base and ends of the rail.
In this case, attach the tray center back (6.5″ piece), and the 35.5″ base aligned with the ends. The front vertical (the 6″ piece) sits lower to cover the front of the base piece. This piece is visible from the front, so it should be attached with glue and finish nails only.
The front face of the rolling frame requires the 74″, and one of the 69″ 1x2s to be attached, face to face, with the ends evenly spaced at 2 1/2″, using nails and glue. The other 69″ 1×2 is attached to the 79″ 1×4 tray front, with the ends equally spaced at 5″, and the edge 1/2″ offset (or 2 1/2″ from the
top edge).
Attach the 12″ tray legs between the base and face rails. The base rail will be 3/4″ from the bottom of the verticals, and the top of the verticals will line up with the edge of the 1×2. Note that the lower rail attaches to the back side of the verticals, and the upper rail attaches to the front.
The top of the verticals should be 1/4″ below the top rails, and they should extend 3/4″ below the bottom rails. Use 2 screws on each connection (1 1/4″ screws).
Step 5 – Build the Interlocking Slats First, build the sliding set of slats. Mark the 68.5″ slat rails at 3 1/2″ from the end, then every 3 5/8 inches after that. Make those marks measuring from both ends. on edge. Lay one of the 37″ slats across the rails, aligned with the end of the rail. One end of the slat will align with the rail, but the other end should extend 3/4″ beyond the the rail. Screw that down, and a similar one at the other end.
Lay 8 more 37″ slats between them, on the marks, with each one flush with the front rail and overlapping the back, and screw or nail down.
Now start the stationary slat section. On the 74″ slat rails, make marks at 2 1/2″ from each end, then every 3 5/8″ after that. Lay the two 1×3 slats at each end, with both ends of slats overlapping rails by 3/4″. Screw those down.
Now set the sliding slat section on top of the frame for the stationary slats, with the overhanging end of the slats inside the other frame .
Lay out the remaining slats between the others, and tack down to the rails for the stationary section,
with matching overlap to the 1×3 slats.
Step 6 – Build the Drawers Build a square frame using the 1×6 drawer sides. The back piece fits between the side pieces, while the front piece overlaps them.
Attache the bottoms, and then attach the rolling rails to the sides, aligned with the front edge.
Attach the trim pieces so that they overhang the face of the drawer by 1/2″ to 3/4″ on all sides.
Step 7 – Assemble the Rolling Frame Attach the side sections to the front rail with the 5″ vertical resting on top of the lower rail. Attach 2 of the 74″ 1x3s to the back of the side rails, aligned with the top and bottom.
This is a critical point to get everything aligned so that the drawers open smoothly. You need to attach the center section, midway between the ends, with the 6″ vertical at the front, between the upper and lower front rails.
The wheels can now be screwed into the bottom of the side rails near the back. Also attach a 2 1/4″ piece of 1×2 below the center rail in the front.
Step 8 – Assemble the Pieces Drill through the legs on the back frame with a 1/4″ drill at 10″ and 22 3/4″ from the bottom, and 1 5/8″ and 1 7/8″ from the outer edge, as shown. Clamp to the end pieces and continue drilling through
the same holes through the end verticals.
Pre-drill the front legs at 13″ from the bottom, and 7/8″ from the inner edge. Clamp to the ends, and drill on through the legs of the ends. Remove the clamps and install the bolts. The bolts in the front legs and the upper bolts in the back legs go through from the front, and the
lower bolts in the back legs go through from the rear (this keeps the nuts out of view and avoid scraping the wall with the threaded end).
Set the frame on top of the rolling section with the front rail in the center of the rolling frame. Set the interlocking slats on top, aligning each section with the frame below.
This daybed has a pull-out section to increase the width to a queen size or larger. The basic design is similar to the Hemnes brand daybed, but there are some notable differences. This bed extends up to 33″ for a total width of 72″, which is wider than a queen, but not as wide as two twins. You could use it with a full size foam or futon mattress, or get a combination of a twin, and a “single” or “bunk” mattress that measures 30″ to 33″ in width.
It disassembles with 6 bolts into 6 smaller pieces, so it should fit into any vehicle that can carry the mattress. It is a fairly complex build, but others have noted that the store bought version is pretty complicated even in kit form. This one does not require any specialty tools, and all connections can be made with screws or nails strait through the board faces. A miter saw is helpful to get square cuts, and a carpenter’s square to get the assembly strait.
Shopping List 9 – 1×2 x 8′ 12 – 1×3 x 8′ 8 – 1×4 x 10′ (or 13 @ 8′) 5 – 1×6 x 6′ (or 4 @ 8′) 2 – 3/8×1.5 x 8′ drawer trim 1 – 4′ x 8′ x 3/16″ veneer or masonite (for drawer bottoms) 1 – 4′ x 8′ x 1/4″ beadboard or finish plywood 2 – 1.5″ swivel casters (floor to platform height of 2.25″) 2 – 24″ rolling drawer slide sets 6 – 3″ x 1/4″ carriage bolts with washers & nuts 50 – 2″ screws 100 – 1.25″ screws finish nails glue If the 10 footers do not fit in your vehicle, ask the lumber store to cut them at 40″/80″. That will give you a couple inches to spare on all cuts.
Cut List
1 – 1×2 x 79.5″ – top 2 – 1×2 x 12″ – vert back 1 – 1×2 x 74″ – Tray lower front 2 – 1×2 x 74″ – slat rails 2 – 1×2 x 68.5″ – slat rails 2 – 1×2 x 69″ – Tray fronts 1 – 1×2 x 6″ – tray center front 1 – 1×2 x 6.5″ – tray center back 1 – 1×2 x 35.5″ – tray center bottom 1 – 1×2 x 2.25″ – tray foot 4 – 1×2 x 13.5″ – side trim 3 – 1×3 x 79.5″ – Back & lower 2 – 1×3 x 39.5″ – arms 2 – 1×3 x 38″ – slats 2 – 1×3 x 35″ – arm supp 2 – 1×3 x 36″ – legs 6 – 1×3 x 24″ – legs 4 – 1×3 x 12.75″ – filler 4 – 1×3 x 8.75″ – filler 2 – 1×3 x 74″ – tray back 2 1×3 35.5 – tray end base 1 – 1×3 x 34.75″ – tray center 2 – 1×3 x 12″ – tray legs 2 – 1×3 x 8.25″ – tray back verticals 2 1×3 5″ – tray front verticals 2 – 1×4 x 74.5″ – back 1 – 1×4 x 79″ – tray 10 – 1×4 x 37″ – slats 9 – 1×4 x 38″ – slats 2 – 1×4 x 34″ – tray sides 2 – 1×6 x 35″ – ends 2 – 1×6 x 32.75″ – drawer fronts 2 – 1×6 x 31.25″ – drawer backs 4 – 1×6 x 23.75″ – drawer sides 4 – 3/8 x 1.5 x 34.5″ – drawer trim – both ends cut 45 degrees, trapezoid, measured on long edge 4 – 3/8 x 1.5 x 6.5″ – drawer trim – both ends cut 45 degrees, trapezoid, measured on long edge 2 3/16” x 32.25×25.5 – drawer bottoms 2 1/4” x 18h x35w – ends 2 1/4” x 22.5h x 38.25w – back
Step 1 – Build the Back frame
Attach an 8.75″ piece of filler to each of the 36″ legs, aligned with the bottom, using nails and glue. Lay a 79.5″ 1×3 on a 74.5″ 1×4, with one edge aligned, with each end extending 2 and a half inches. Glue and nail together, nailing through the 1×3 into the 1×4 (the opposite side of the 1×4 is the visible side).
Attach the top 1×2 to the aligned edge of the 2 boards, aligned with then ends of the 1×3. Nails and glue are sufficient, assuming the glue ts are clamped while drying.
Make another 1×3 on 1×4 for the lower rail, with one edge aligned, with each end extending 2 and a half inches. This one does not have the extra 1×2. Lay the legs about 74″ apart, and set lower rail assembly across, against the top of the filler pieces, with the extended portion of the 1×4 towards the top of the legs. Attach using glue and 2 screws, keeping the screws away from the center of the t (you will be putting a bolt through the center later).
Flip that assembly over, and set the assembled top rail across the top ends of the legs. Screw through the 1×3 top rail into the back of the legs, and add glue to the t.
Attach the 1×2 verticals to the outside edge of the legs, immediately below the top rail.
Also attach the 12.75″ filler pieces above the lower rail, and the large beadboard s on the back.
Step 2 – Build the Front Rail Build 2 front legs, using 2 of the best 24″ pieces. Attach one 8.75″ filler and one 12.75″ filler to each leg using glue and nails. Make sure the gap between the filler pieces allows the width of the 1×3 rail to fit tightly between them. Nail through the filler piece, so the heads are not visible on the 24″ piece.
Attach the main 79.5″ rail, using glue and 2 screws on each end. Position the screws about 3/4″ from the corners of the rail.
Step 3 – Build the End Pieces Pre-drill the remaining 24″ legs with 2 holes each, 3/4″ from the edge, at 3.5″ and 7″ from the bottom. Attach a 35″ 1×6 between them with glue and 2″ screws, with the top edge 8″ from the bottom of the legs, and 3/8″ in from the edge. Note: having properly squared ends on the 1×4 will help keep the whole thing square (don’t trust the factory cut to be perfectly square).
Now install a 35″ 1×3 between the legs, with the top edge aligned with the top of the legs, also set 3/8″ in from the edge. Pre-drill holes, and use glue and screws. Install the top armrest on each end piece, in mirror image. Each arm extends 3/4″ in the back, and 2.25″ in the front. Make sure that one has the side rails on the left, and the other has the rails on the right, when viewed from the front. Use glue and finish nails.
Attache 1×2 pieces to each leg, spanning from the top rail to the bottom. Nail or screw through the leg into the edge of the 1×2. (The surface of these legs will not be visible when assembled, so all screw heads will be hidden.)
Step 4 – Build the Rolling Frame Components
To create the end pieces of the rolling frame, pre-drill holes in the 8.25″ and 5″ 1x3s at 3/4″ and 2 3/4″ from one end, centered across the width. Attach one of each to either end of the 34″ tray sides, with screws and glue, aligning the edge of the side piece with the end of the smaller pieces.
Now attach the 35.5″ tray end base to align with the end pieces, using glue and nails. You’ll need two identical pieces. Create the center section of the rolling frame in a similar manner, using a 1×3 for the rail, and 1x2s for the base and ends of the rail.
In this case, attach the tray center back (6.5″ piece), and the 35.5″ base aligned with the ends. The front vertical (the 6″ piece) sits lower to cover the front of the base piece. This piece is visible from the front, so it should be attached with glue and finish nails only.
The front face of the rolling frame requires the 74″, and one of the 69″ 1x2s to be attached, face to face, with the ends evenly spaced at 2 1/2″, using nails and glue. The other 69″ 1×2 is attached to the 79″ 1×4 tray front, with the ends equally spaced at 5″, and the edge 1/2″ offset (or 2 1/2″ from the
top edge).
Attach the 12″ tray legs between the base and face rails. The base rail will be 3/4″ from the bottom of the verticals, and the top of the verticals will line up with the edge of the 1×2. Note that the lower rail attaches to the back side of the verticals, and the upper rail attaches to the front.
The top of the verticals should be 1/4″ below the top rails, and they should extend 3/4″ below the bottom rails. Use 2 screws on each connection (1 1/4″ screws).
Step 5 – Build the Interlocking Slats First, build the sliding set of slats. Mark the 68.5″ slat rails at 3 1/2″ from the end, then every 3 5/8 inches after that. Make those marks measuring from both ends. on edge. Lay one of the 37″ slats across the rails, aligned with the end of the rail. One end of the slat will align with the rail, but the other end should extend 3/4″ beyond the the rail. Screw that down, and a similar one at the other end.
Lay 8 more 37″ slats between them, on the marks, with each one flush with the front rail and overlapping the back, and screw or nail down.
Now start the stationary slat section. On the 74″ slat rails, make marks at 2 1/2″ from each end, then every 3 5/8″ after that. Lay the two 1×3 slats at each end, with both ends of slats overlapping rails by 3/4″. Screw those down.
Now set the sliding slat section on top of the frame for the stationary slats, with the overhanging end of the slats inside the other frame .
Lay out the remaining slats between the others, and tack down to the rails for the stationary section,
with matching overlap to the 1×3 slats.
Step 6 – Build the Drawers Build a square frame using the 1×6 drawer sides. The back piece fits between the side pieces, while the front piece overlaps them.
Attache the bottoms, and then attach the rolling rails to the sides, aligned with the front edge.
Attach the trim pieces so that they overhang the face of the drawer by 1/2″ to 3/4″ on all sides.
Step 7 – Assemble the Rolling Frame Attach the side sections to the front rail with the 5″ vertical resting on top of the lower rail. Attach 2 of the 74″ 1x3s to the back of the side rails, aligned with the top and bottom.
This is a critical point to get everything aligned so that the drawers open smoothly. You need to attach the center section, midway between the ends, with the 6″ vertical at the front, between the upper and lower front rails.
The wheels can now be screwed into the bottom of the side rails near the back. Also attach a 2 1/4″ piece of 1×2 below the center rail in the front.
Step 8 – Assemble the Pieces Drill through the legs on the back frame with a 1/4″ drill at 10″ and 22 3/4″ from the bottom, and 1 5/8″ and 1 7/8″ from the outer edge, as shown. Clamp to the end pieces and continue drilling through
the same holes through the end verticals.
Pre-drill the front legs at 13″ from the bottom, and 7/8″ from the inner edge. Clamp to the ends, and drill on through the legs of the ends. Remove the clamps and install the bolts. The bolts in the front legs and the upper bolts in the back legs go through from the front, and the
lower bolts in the back legs go through from the rear (this keeps the nuts out of view and avoid scraping the wall with the threaded end).
Set the frame on top of the rolling section with the front rail in the center of the rolling frame. Set the interlocking slats on top, aligning each section with the frame below.
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