The Fleece fabrics: Technically, fleece fabrics are not truly of a pile construction. Fleece fabrics are knitted so that, when finished, they will have a short to medium nap that has a soft, pleasant hand. It will provide warmth body, as well as moisture wicking & absorption, if desired. The kind of fibers used is dependent upon the use of objective. They are used for such purposes as linens, active sportswear, outwear & plush toys. Fleece knits can be made on circular knitting m/c in any one of three different types of construction. The m/c employing sinker top, dial cylinder mechanisms with these equipments various effects can be produced. Two thread fleeces: One type of fleece knit is the 2-yarn system. One yarn which provides the ground or body is knitted either in single or double jersey construction. The second yarn, which may be coarser and heavier to accommodate subsequent happing, is the floating or inlay yarn that is tucked at predetermined intervals on selected needles. This is the most productive method of making fleece knit. Two thread fleece called simple fleece. Feeder No. 1 : Feeder No. 2 : Feeder No. 3 : Feeder No. 4 :
Repeat
Cam Arrangement for the Design (2 thread fleece): Feeder No. Needle Track 4 Needle Track 3 Needle Track 2 Needle Track 1 Here, ∆ = Knit cam
1 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ Π = Tuck cam
2 _ _ _ Π _ = Miss cam
3 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
4 _ Π _ _
Three thread fleece: One type of fleece knit construction is the 3-yarn system, where 3 years are fed sequentially from separate yarn positions around the cylinder of the m/c the first yarn is the backing or fleece yarn. The 2nd & 3rd yarn are the tie-in & ground yarns which are fed successively in a plaiting relationship & knitted so that the fleece yarn is enough of pre-determined intervals between them. This result in the fleece yarn being floated on the technical back of the fabric & held in place by the wales of plaited tie in a ground yarns. The technique hides the fleece yarn from the technical face so that it will be exposed only on the back. The fleece yarn, which may be coarse spun & low twist, can thus subsequently be readily napped & given other surface finisher. Three thread fleece called invisible fleece. Feeder No. 1 : Feeder No. 2 : Feeder No. 3 : Feeder No. 4 : Feeder No. 5 : Feeder No. 6 :
Repeat
Cam Arrangement for the design (3 thread fleece): Feeder No. Needle track 4 Needle track 3 Needle track 2 Needle track 1
Here, ∆ = Knit cam
1
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆ Π = Tuck cam
2 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
3
4
Π _ _ _
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
_ = Miss cam
5 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
6
_ _ Π _
Cam Arrangement for Diagonal Fleece: Feeder No. Needle track 4 Needle track 3 Needle track 2 Needle track 1
1
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
2 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
3
4
Π _ _ _
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
5 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
6
7
_ Π _ _
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
%Calculation for Finished GSM – 250 (2 Thread Fleece): Let us consider the following data – Face yarn count = 24’S & Stitch Length for Face = 2.8 mm Back yarn count = 20’S & Stitch Length for Back = 1.4 mm Machine Dia = 30” Machine Gauge = 20 No. of Needle = 1944 Now, Course length for face = 1944 × 2.8 mm = 5443.2 mm = 5.44 m Course length for back = 1944 × 1.4 mm = 2722 mm = 2.72 m For face yarn = 24 × 840 × 0.9144 = 18432 m/lb = 18432 × 2.205 m/kg = 40643 m/kg For back yarn = 20 × 840 × 0.9144 = 15360 m/lb = 15360 × 2.205 m/kg = 33869 m/kg Face loop yarn wt = Back loop yarn wt =
1000 40643 1000 33869
× 5.44 = 0.1339 gm × 2.72 = 0.0804 gm
Total = (0.1339 + 0.0804) = 0.2143 gm
8 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
9
10
_ _ Π _
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
11 ∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
12
_ _ _ Π
% Consumption for face yarn = % Consumption for back yarn =
0.1339 0.2143 0.0804 0.2143
× 100 = 𝟔𝟐. 𝟓% × 100 = 𝟑𝟕. 𝟓%
Fiber Composition (2 thread fleece): If 80% cotton & 20% polyester & PC used in back -
Cotton Polyester
Face yarn 24/1 100 0
Back yarn 20/1 35 65
Cotton 62.5% 35 × 37.5% = 13.125% 75.625%
Polyester 0% 65 × 37.5% = 24.37% 24.37%
Now,
Face Back Total
100% If 80% cotton & 20% polyester & CVC used in back –
Cotton Polyester
Face yarn 24/1 100 0
Back yarn 20/1 60 40
Cotton 62.5% 60 × 37.5% = 22.50% 85%
Polyester 0% 40 × 37.5% = 15.00% 15%
Now,
Face Back Total
100%
%Calculation for Finished GSM – 310 (3 Thread Fleece): Let us consider the following data – Face yarn count = 30’S & Stitch Length for Face = 4.5 mm Plated yarn count = 34’S & Stitch Length for Plated = 3.6 mm Back yarn count = 16’S & Stitch Length for Back = 1.55 mm No. of Needle = 1885 Now, Course length for face = 1885 × 4.5 mm = 8482.5 mm = 8.4825 m Course length for plated = 1885 × 3.6 mm = 6786 mm = 6.786 m Course length for back = 1885 × 1.55 mm = 2921.75 mm = 2.9218 m For face yarn = 30 × 840 × 0.9144 = 23042.88 m/lb = 23042.88 × 2.205 m/kg = 50809.55 m/kg For plated yarn = 34 × 840 × 0.9144 = 26115.27 m/lb = 26115.27 × 2.205 m/kg = 57584.157 m/kg For back yarn = 16 × 840 × 0.9144 = 12289.54 m/lb = 12289.54 × 2.205 m/kg = 27098.427 m/kg Face loop yarn wt =
1000 50809 .55
Plated loop yarn wt = Back loop yarn wt =
× 8.4825 = 0.1669 gm
1000 57584 .157 1000
27098 .427
× 6.786 = 0.1178 gm
× 2.9218 = 0.1078 gm
Total = (0.1669 + 0.1178 + 0.1078) = 0.3925 gm % Consumption for face yarn =
0.1669 0.3925
× 100 = 𝟒𝟐. 𝟓%
% Consumption for plated yarn = % Consumption for back yarn =
0.1178 0.3925
0.1078 0.3925
× 100 = 𝟑𝟎%
× 100 = 𝟐𝟕. 𝟓%
Fiber Composition (3 thread fleece): If 80% cotton & 20% polyester & PC used in back –
Cotton Polyester
Face 100 0
Plated 100 0
Back 35 65
Now, Cotton 42.5% 30% 27.5 × 35% = 9.625% 82.125%
Face Plated Back Total
Polyester 0% 0% 27.5 × 65% = 17.875% 17.875% 100%
If 80% cotton & 20% polyester & PC used in face –
Cotton Polyester
Face 35 65
Plated 35 65
Back 100 0
Now,
Face Plated Back Total
Cotton 35 × 42.5% = 14.875% 35 × 30% = 10.5% 27.5% 52.875%
Polyester 65 × 42.5% = 27.625% 65 × 30% = 19.50% 0% 47.125% 100%